STYLE GUIDE

STYLE GUIDE. WEARABILITY.

How to dress to go to work? What clothing is it preferable for a formal invitation or for a lunch with friends? What clothes do you have to choose to spend all day in the office or for dating? What is the best suit to be really elegant for a wedding or for a graduation? The solution to every doubt is to wear a suit that fits perfectly, made with the most beautiful and appropriate fabric. To purchase the perfect suit there are some rules that allow you to have a flawless appearance, always.

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Wearability

A suit must have the right measurements and fit perfectly; the shoulders should naturally accompany yours, the sleeve must have the ideal length to reveal just the right amount of the shirt cuff, the jacket should be neither too long nor too short.

The shoulders:

the right shoulder measurement of a perfect jacket should not extend beyond the natural measurement of your shoulder and if the shoulder measurement is correct, probably the rest of the suit will be perfect.

The waistline:

there must be a line that highlights your waist, because you have to be able to button the jacket comfortably, but there must be no more than two fingers of space between the placket and your body.

The sleeves:

the length of the jacket sleeve must reveal the shirt cuff by about a centimetre and a half.

The trousers:

definitely socks should not be seen when you are standing and the front hem should rest lightly on the shoe while the rear part should touch the top of the heel.

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STYLE GUIDE. COLOURS AND FABRICS.

Which colour? In classic menswear, the colour of a suit is governed by a few simple rules that make choosing the colour a simple task. Not all colours can be used in the same way, because some may be suitable for one occasion and completely unsuitable for another. It is also important to know that some colours have limitations depending on the season, while others impose matches that can cause unexpected effects.

The basic colours: grey, blue and black

The basic colours for suits are blue and grey. Suits in these colours are suitable for any event; dark grey is a colour very suitable for young people starting their careers, while blue is suitable for older people. A black suit can be used as an alternative for a wedding and some people use it under the assumption that it conveys a certain authority, but it is a habit that does not reflect the canons of Italian elegance. Blue suits are a great choice when you are undecided as to the appropriate colour. For all these colours, it is also possible to have pinstriped versions and, although this pattern could reduce the degree of formality, pinstripes are still widely acknowledged and accepted at all formal and business events.

Fabrics

Suits, trousers and jackets are made of pure wool fabrics or mixed with artificial or synthetic fibres that are called combed, carded and fulled. Combed fabrics, such as gabardine, grisaille, twill and wool, are made of long combed fibre yarns and are the most valuable because they are produced with a very fine yarn which allows lightness, shine and resistance to crumpling and wear and tear. Carded fabrics have a coarse texture and are more suitable for winter suits, coats and overcoats, like tweed, cheviot and herring bone fabrics. Fulled fabrics, such as flannel and vicuna, are less consistent than combed fabrics but no less valuable and their main feature is softness: a fulled fabric suit will be less stiff and therefore more in line with the anatomy of the wearer.

Brown

Brown is a very popular basic colour, particular in shades ranging from chocolate to dark brown. Some men look very good in this colour and can use it as an important part of their wardrobe, even for less formal wear, including tweed suits and casual jackets.

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STYLE GUIDE. THE MODELS.

Ce ne sont pas seulement les femmes qui suivent la mode: la plupart des hommes aime aussi à renouveler son garde-robe. Les lignes de vêtements pour hommes allant de occasionnels à des poursuites, avec un large éventail de variantes de vestes et pantalons. Sartorino propose de nombreuses idées et de nouveaux modèles, fabriqués avec les meilleurs tissus italiens et l'ajustement idéal pour tous les types de corps.

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The jacket

The two-button jacket: the most widely used model, it falls better and is flattering because the top button is positioned close to the waistline. In this model, only the top button is buttoned. The three-button jacket: better for tall men because it does not outline the waist so much. In general, only the top two buttons are buttoned, but if you have chosen a model with long revers, you can button the middle one only. The single-button jacket: streamlines the torso, but is not suitable for sturdy men. It is the most used in men's fashion shows, but is less easy to wear if you are not a model. The double-breasted jacket: the most formal model, extensively used in the past. It is not suitable for those who are small because it cuts the figure.

Vents

Two side vents: the most flexible model, which marks the lines of the body, slims the leg and conveys more elegance to the suit.

One central vent: the most practical model, but little used in classic Italian tailoring. Without vents: restricts movement when you're sitting or when you put your hands in your pockets.

Without vents: restricts movement when you're sitting or when you put your hands in your pockets.

Revers

There are many models of revers, but in general they should not be too narrow or too eccentric, but in harmony with your figure.

Trousers

Darts are folds in the fabric that depart from the belt and go down to the crotch.

Trousers can be without darts and are more suitable for tall and slender men; with darts, as in most business suits; with double darts, for sturdy men.

The turn-up must be a maximum of 4 cm and it must be proportionate to the leg. All trousers allow for turn-ups, but it is good to know that those without them lengthen the leg.

Back pockets can be simple, with or without buttons. You can also choose trousers without pockets.

Sleeves

The buttons on the jacket sleeves can be from one to four and, when the suit is tailor made, you can keep one unbuttoned just to emphasize the tailoring quality of the garment.

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DRESS CODE AND OCCASIONS.

Not just weddings or formal ceremonies, but also parties, cocktails and other kinds of events, and how should you dress? There are plenty of moments in a man’s life that require a precise outfit and often it is not easy to understand the difference between formal, informal and casual, and consequently to understand when to prefer one style as opposed to another.

Clothing and elegance

An elegant man wears a new suit as if it were used and a used suit as if it were new; he never wears braces without a waistcoat, always matching his tie with his socks, which are always long. He prefers jackets with vents that better fit his body shape and prevent the jacket from becoming deformed when he puts his hands in his pockets. He chooses quality and classic fabrics that are not too flashy.

Occasions

For lunch, a man must wear an elegant and classic plain suit, coloured shirt and walking shoes; for a cocktail party, a dark suit with white shirt and black shoes. For an important ceremony, a dark suit or a dinner suit, while for a wedding a dark suit will be perfect. However, if the groom is wearing a morning coat, if he is the best man or a close relative, then he will have to wear one too.

Dress code

Here is what we might find on an invitation specifying the dress code,, informing guests how to dress.

White Tie
This is required for the most formal official events, such as diplomatic ceremonies, charity events or aristocratic weddings. The man wears a tail coat with a white bow-tie, placing a white handkerchief in the breast pocket. Shoes are black, in shiny or patent leather, with long black silk socks. Pocket watch. During winter it is worn with a black cloak or coat with hidden buttons and velvet collar, silk scarf and gloves, both white.

Black Tie
This is required for formal events after 5.00 p.m., premieres or dancing events. The man wears a black tuxedo, shoes with laces but not in shiny leather and long black silk socks. A white tuxedo is allowed only in places with a hot climate or for outdoor events or weddings.

Formal Attire
Evening events, such as business meetings. The man wears an elegant dark suit and tie.

A5 (After five)
Unless specified, A5 means cocktails; the man wears a suit in the colour of his choice, even without a tie.

Casual
Informal style for dinners, corporate parties or with friends. No tie required, but nice slacks and a shirt with the sleeves rolled up.

Bb (business best)
For important business meetings and events. The man wears a tailored business suit in dark blue, or with pinstripes, single-breasted or double-breasted jacket, white shirt with double cuffs, cufflinks and handkerchief in the breast pocket. Black shoes, Oxford or Derby type only.

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STYLE GUIDE. THE TIE KNOT.

Often considered to be an instrument of torture, the tie is, on the contrary, an instrument of pleasure. The tie is the detail that makes all the difference between an ordinary man and an elegant man. An inevitable fashion accessory, it comes in all patterns and colours. It matches perfectly with the shirt, suit, cuffs and pocket handkerchief. It can be discreet, elegant and plain, or multi-coloured and evident, allowing the wearer to express his personality, become a real sign of distinction. Symbol of elegance, authority and good taste, the tie is the accessory that allows a man to lengthening his upper body and enhance of his physique..

THE TIE KNOT

Every occasion requires just the right tie. For a job interview, the tie must be very sober. For commercial and creative events, a colourful tie is recommended, while the worlds of finance and law prefer a sober passe-partout silk tie, or a tone-on-tone tie that will match the colour of the shirt. For family parties, such as weddings, christenings and anniversaries, light colours are recommended. The final effect depends as much on the fabric and the colour of the tie as the knot. There are numerous ways of knotting a tie, but very few are actually used as a general rule.

Single knot The great classic of tie knots, the most widely used because it is the easiest to do and it agrees with most ties and with practically all shirt collars. It is perfect for tall or average height men. Conical and elongated, the single knot is narrow with fine ties and wider with thick ones.

Double knot:very similar to the single knot, but made with a second rotation because the wide end of the tie must be passed twice around the narrow end. It looks thicker than the single knot and it is perfect with most shirts. It is also perfect with all ties, except those that are too thick.

Windsor Knot: the knot for special events, it is named after the Duke of Windsor, who made it popular. As it is quite large it should be used with spread collars, such as French or Windsor collars. Sometimes complicated to tie, to be perfect it must sit right in the middle of the collar and hide the top button of the shirt.

Small knot: particularly suitable with thick ties or shirts with narrow collars. It should be avoided with shirts with long or open collars. It is relatively easy to tie, but requires a 180° “twist”. The small knot is the easiest way of knotting a tie.

Small knot
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